The lining is a cotton and linen mix woven in Friesland or Haarlingham, Holland. The Dutch were copying Indian check cottons during the 18th century. The girl in the portrait may be wearing a Chinese damask skirt.
The teal blue silk satin damask with a slightly two coloured striped ground, woven with a large repeat of curving leaves, peonies, fruit, blue wool tape waistband with a variety of brass hooks, deep side openings, the lining of Dutch blue and natural check linen/cotton, a red stamp on the lining (unreadable)
The Chinese silk measures selvedge to selvedge 28 1/4 in; 72 cm + turnings
The silk pattern repeat 20 in; 51 cm.
The measurements ;
Front waist band 14'' 36 cm; Back waist back 14'' 36 cm
Front length waist to hem 38'' 97 cm; Back length waist to hem 39'' 99 cm
Skirt panels widths ;
3 full widths at 28'' 72 cm
1 panel width 12 3/4 '' 32 cm
1 panel width 13 1/4'' 34 cm
Lining full widths measure 25 1/2'' 65 cm
Circumference 9 ft 3 in; 2.8 m;
Very good. No damage apart from two small holes to the hem. Where the skirt is gathered below the waistband there are some feint feint vertical lines on the folds, but really hardly noticeable. You can only see these by scrutinising the fabric. The wool waistband has worn in places. Ask for photos.
For similar silk: What Clothes Reveal by Linda Baumgarten p 50 fig 80 - dress
Fashion, Kyoto Costume Insitute p 99 - man's banyan
http://www.fashioningtheearlymodern.ac.uk/object-in-focus/mans-banyan/
http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O356128/gown-unknown/ - banyan
http://collections.lacma.org/node/214490 - banyan
http://museums.fivecolleges.edu/detail.php?museum=all&t=objects&type=all&f=&s=HD+2004.22&record=0 - banyan
http://www.christies.com/lotfinder/textiles-costume/a-court-mantua-of-chinese-imperial-yellow-5018370-details.aspx?from=salesummary&intObjectID=5018370&sid=6c0df234-920d-44ff-9d23-ddb9288ab8df - dress
Clothing & Fashion. American Fashion from Head to Toe. General Editor Jose Blanco F,
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