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Fish Scales Reticule
1830's

of black silk velvet embroidered with shaded green silk leafy sprays of layered fish scale carnations, some with yellow or pink silk stamens, the other side similar but with two sprays, drawstring top with lare tassels,lined with white cotton, 8 x 6 1/4 in; 19 x 16 cm

Comments

Rare. One of the delightful hobbies which Victorian women undertook in their spare time. Morris, Barbara Victorian Embroidery p 161-2 . She explains that fishscale embroidery was worked on silk, satin or velvet. The iridescent scales of the carp, perch or goldfish were considered the most suitable.They were scraped from the fish with a knife, steeped in cold water until soft and pliable, and two small holes were pierced with a needle near the base of each scale. The scales were then coloured with a mixture of varnish and powdered colour after which they were ready to be sewn to the ground by silk thread, and were arranged in overlapping patterns to represent the petals of flowers, such as roses, or the shapes of birds and butterflies. Stems, veins, tendrils and other fine details were worked in fine chnille thread, gold thread or filoselle . Most fishscale embroideries were made in England. Field, June Collecting Georgian Crafts On p 124 she shows a reticule made in the West Indies in 1891 and jewelry made in Barbados in 1881. In the book she states that embroidery incorporating fish scales was popular in the late 19th century, the scales being used to imitate petals, feathers and segments of butterfly's wing. Higgins, Paula & Blaser, Lori A Passion for Purses p 78 It would interesting to know which solds the fishscales and how popular a craft this was.

Condition

Some of the scales are a little bent which can be seen from the photos. Both sides have a few small marks which are hard. Perhaps if this was conserved these could be removed.A very little wear where the fabric has been pulled in by the drawstring which is only noticeable when it is drawnout. The inside lining is torn.