SOLD

Norwich damask 1
c 1740 fabric

glazed worsted wool with a large repeat design of pineapple type flowers surrounded by large daisy species with diaper centres, woven in silvery white wool onto a mid blue, the front with original pleating , the back with large pleats, fastened to a wool tape waistband, mid blue narrow cord to edge of hem, 6 widths 15 in; 39 cm: pattern repeat 19 in; 49 cm: waist 30 in; 76 cm: length 35 1/2 in; 90 cm.

Comments

Wonderful design and feel to the fabric. The fabric is c 1740 and the original skirt altered in the 19th c. In the Dutch book Aristocratic Attire Bianca M du Mortier. Rijksmuseum 2000 there is a man's morning gown, a Sjamberlouk made from the same fabric as the skirt. See fig 24. It states that much woollen damask came from Norwich. Because of the clietnele's conservative taste, the large floral and fruit motifs which had come into fashion in the second quarter of the 18th century were still being supplied at the end of that century. The damask fabric was known as spigeldamast or mirror damask and the shine (calendaring) was achieved by putting the completed fabric through heated cylinders. Calendering makes the fabric dirt resistant and therefore stronger.

Condition

The front appears correct as does the waistband tape, but this skirt has noticeable been reduced and the back panel altered. I would have thought the narrow dust gather cord to hem was 19th c. I am not aware that these were used in the 18th c. Comments please. Panel 1 - small dark mark. Panel 2 - gc. Panel 3 - vgc. Panel 4 - two slight dark marks. Panel 5 - vgc. Panel 6 - darkish small mark near hem and two small holes.