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Quilted Jumps
c 1740

or waistcoat, the fine linen quilted overall with a small ? in. diamond pattern and embroidered in crewel wools with upright flower sprays, including pinks (carnations) to the front and lower back, a larger central rose spray to four lower panels, all in shades of pink, green, yellow, blue and little brown, the scooped neck with eyelet holes to central front opening (lacings), with curving lower skirts, the neck and armholes are bound with a linen tape, 22 in. high, 30 in. underarm,

Comments

There is an Indian influence in the drawing of the upright flowers. These are very unusual in that they are worked in crewel wools rather than silks. The pinks have slightly raised three dimensional centres, achieved I believe through pulling of the thread rather than padding. Jumps gave lighter support and were sometimes worn in place of stays. Worn informally or whenever a less stiff garment was required. See: Fashion. The Kyoto Costume Institute Collection p 86. See: ?Embroidered Bodices: An East India Company Connection?? by Myrtle Campbell (Costume number 36 2002) p 90 There is a very informative article on waistcoats or jumps by Sharon Ann Burnston on www.sallyqueenassociates.com Pleae look at all the photos as some are better than others. Many more are available.

Condition

The left hand back flap has had the two outer upright flower sprays cut out!!!!!! Who could do such a thing to this beautiful piece. The lining has been removed. There was some damage to the side openings and this has now been conserved, quite brilliantly. The conservator has washed this piece and cleverly dyed and shaded pieces of linen to fill the holes at the back. See close up photos. The quilting on the back neck is not of quite the same hand as the main body of quilting, presumably worked by two different people. The set of buttonholes on the left of the jumps have been worked later, are slightly larger and do not tie up with the existing, but this was done a long time ago, possibly for fancy dress. The jumps look really good, the colours are bright and clear. There is a little discolouration here and there. For very detailed report and photos please ask.