Rare to find on the market a dress of this date made from muslin, and the fact it has been identified as Scottish and probably woven in Paisley adds to its rarity. The narrow inset panels are also probably embroidered in Scotland. The four deep pleats at the back skirt are unusual as is the laced back bodice.
large neck with a fall front high waisted bodice, inset narrow panels of whitework leaf sprigs worked in chain stitch on a loose mesh ground, secured by Dorset buttons, opening to reveal cotton front flaps, the back bodice with deep set sleeves and ten embroidered eyelet holes and lacing cord, very long tapering sleeves cut on the cross, the top sleeve cotton lined, the apron front panel with linen ties, the back with four deep pleats, the inner two revealing further pleating, the inner back with a padded bustle roll and ties, trained, shoulder to front hem 4ft 4 in or1.32 m; shoulder to back hem 5 ft 1 in or 1.55 m
Very good.
One of the bosom flaps has some rust markings. The back deep set sleeves have slight light marks, but really hardly noticeable. The left hand cuff is torn but could easily be conserved, by us if you wish. It also has a few rust marks. Ask for photos.
My thanks to Sonia Ashmore, Research Fellow at the V & A who has given me the following information. 'By 1784, at least 5,000 weavers were employed in and around Paisley. Within another 20 years, it employed some 20,000 people, with 6,750 looms producing muslin and only 120 weaving silk.' Sonia's book on Muslins will be published in December by the V & A. The sample page is from Brown and Sharp sample book dating from the late 18th c. (1770s onwards). Scottish weavers were producing a huge variety of designs imitating Indian muslins. My thanks also to Dan Coughlan of Paisley Museum for taking the time to look through the pattern book to identify the same muslin.
Bradfield, Nora Costume in Detail p90
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