Chinese embroidered garments made for the Western export market are rare. This type of top quality embroidery was done in Suzhou. The pattern for the embroidered decoration, would have been drawn in ink onto the uncut lengths of the silk satin. The silk was then embroidered in twisted silks. The uncut waistcoat would have been shipped to Britain where it woudl have been made up. The backing is also interesting being made from a slightly glazed imperial yellow worsted probably from Norwich, Norfolk, England.
I have often wondered why the Chinese only used twisted silk thread on export embroideries whilst using floss silks for their own use. An embroidery friend tells me that twisted silks are cheaper to produce, more durable, easier to use and need less experience to embroider than floss silks. This would also mean that the Chinese could produce embroideries for the Western market more quickly and therefore cheaper. Most embroidery came either through the ports of Canton, or Macau for the Portuguese market, but would have been embroidered all over China. The style of the embroidery on the waistcoat looks like Suzhou embroidery. This region produced fine workmanship, top quality and more expensive pieces.
of bright Imperial yellow satin with round neck, the curved front opening border embroidered in twisted silks with peonies and fruits in a leaf meander, continuing to the skirts, satin stitches but with some Peking Knots, the buttons embroidered with strands of silk, embroidered buttonholes, the pointed shaped pockets with central peony flanked by seed heads and other small flowerheads, with similar detail below pockets, the satin to the main field and below the pockets was woven with rows of horizontal narrow lines, the back of Imperial yellow Norwich worsted wool and with a central back cotton vent, lined with two different linens to the top section and ivory silk mix? to the skirts, length: shoulder to hem 31 in; 79 c. back: top to bottom: 25 in; 64 cm; underarm 42 in; 1.07 m.
In remarkable condition. There are a few little marks to the front. See photo of the worst one which is make up colour!. Could probably do with freshening up and a little conservation attention. One very small hole to the worsted at lower back. Photos available.
You will also notice that the pockets have not been sewn on in the correct place. It looks as if they were sewn on, because there are stitch marks, but then altered. Ask for photos.
* ARTICLES Norwich Stuffs
Bertin-Guest, Josiane Chinese Embroidery. Traditional Techniques.
Los Angeles County Museum have a coat from the 1740s similarly embroidered in blue, for the export market.
1740.http://collections.lacma.org/node/214509
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