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Doruka Frgament
Late 19th c.
This was one type of shawl that the Europeans could not copy. Although this is only a fragment it is an interesting example of this technique.
Cataloguing
a full width of a shawl, the pinky brown pashmina ground with both sides woven with stylised tulip and leaf sprays in two shades of bright pink with a little yellow and orange, the guard stripe with similar on a pale blue ground, the inner and outer stripes with a red and orange embroidery on a dark ground, 5 in x 5ft 2 in or 12 cm x 1.56 m
Condition
very good condition. The pashmina has that wonderful polished finish.
Comments
Invented in the later part of the 19th century a twill tapestry woven shawl (kani weave) was taken and an embroiderer outlined both sides of the shawl simultaneously by passing his needle from one side to the other, making sure that the ridges on the reverse were carefully concealed. From a slight distance the piece does appear to be reversible woven instead of reversibly embroidered. This was one type of shawl that the Europeans could not copy.
- The Kashmir Shawl by Frank Ames (Thames and Hudson 1986)
- The Kashmir Shawl by Sherry Rehman & Naheed Jafri.