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Berrus? Pivot Shawl
1860's

Although this is not signed I feel it has to be a Berrus design. Probably exhibited at one of the International Exhibitions. The weave is very finely and tight. Rare, intricate and stunning designs. Anthony Berrus (1815-83) designer had the greatest influence on shawl design for 30 years. Born in Nimes where he also studied at the Ecole de Dessin, he became a carpet designer. Later, still in Nimes he worked for a shawl manufacturer, who later moved his factory to Lyons in 1838, Berrus was made a business partner, but eventually formed his own company in Paris, trading as Berrus Freres. Highly succesful the company employed nearly 200 designers. Berrus' designs were sold to manufacturers in Paris,Lyons and Nimes as well as to the Scottish and Austrian shawl industries. Kashmiri shawl makes also bought his designs. His designs were not bought by the most famous manufacturers who had their own design studios. For similar see: Ames, Frank The Kashmir Shawl. third edition, page 215. colour plate 85

Cataloguing

a pivot design asymetrical shawl woven in wool and silk on a Jacquard loom, each end with a central design upright growing lush foliage and pines splaying out to the side borders, all below four elongated pines emerging from one side of the shawl with bands of Eastern inspired flowers and plants, feathery foliage emerging on a central black centre, the outer border with ribboned panels filled with flowers, all in shades of scarlet, black, mid green, blue grey, pink, ivory, the epaulette border with detailed mehrabs, 11ft 8 in x5 ft or 3.55 x 1.54 m

Condition

Very good. 1/2 in or 1 cm slit to one side border. Another 1 in or 2 cm slit to epaulette end. One little hole. The fringing has come away in a few places. There is very slight fading to one side 11 in wide x 39 in down or 28 x 100 cm drop.

Comments

For similar see: Ames, Frank The Kashmir Shawl. third edition, page 215. colour plate 85