I found a similar design in the Anna Maria Garthwaite paper design archive in the V & A* It has Mr Sabatier written in pencil on the design. Mr John Sabatier snr ( - 1745) was a master weaver from 1742 - 56. His son, also John, became his apprentice in 1716. Garthwaite sold ninety of her designs, for every type of silk, to both father and then son during this period. The son would have been a particularly important customer. John jnr lived in Princes Street, Red Lyon (sic) and Chruch Street, all distinguished by the number of Huguenot weavers living there. He started trading for himself in 1750 with 50 looms, went into partnership with David Delavau, increasing the looms to one hundred. In 1757 the partnership expired. By the 1760s he was working for most of the great mercers in town. He was well respected and became a Governor for Life of the London Hospital, and an Elder of the French Church. He died in 1780.
The satin is substanital and has a good weight which was woven on draw looms with a yard or metre woven a day.
The silvery ivory satin ground woven with pinky mauve design of lace inspired C scroll meanders with large sprays of leaves and flowers, including tulips, pinks (carnations) and roses, the ground scattered with a berry design.
All skirt pieces are 22 inch; 56 cm selvedge to selvedge in width and with a 40 in; 1 m in length. Any additional strips at the top of the lengths are original.
A - An original horizontal strip pieced to the top 2 3/4 in; 7 cm deep. Gathering folds to the top.
B - An original horizontal strip pieced to the top 2 3/4 in; 7 cm deep. Gathering folds to the top.
C - Has the pocket opening slit to the centre. A strip 2 in; 5 cm to the top. Gathering folds to the top. The right hand side has an original inserted panel to the right hand side 4 in; 10 cm wide.
D - Has no pieced strip to the top, but is slightly shorter.
E - Two lengths with selvedges to outer sides. each 11 1/2 in; 19 cm -
F - Two small panels from when made into a bodice during the 19th century. Approximately 15 x 14 in; 38 x 37 cm drop.
G - Two small odd size pieces.
A - A very small darkish mark to the first lace C scroll on the right. 1 cm long.
B - Very good condition.
C - Very good condition.
D - Very good condition.
E - Very good condition.
F & G - Very good condition.
For similar leaf fillings see 5976 by Anna Maria Garthwaite in V & A Prints and Drawings.
*T346-1975. Accession no. 5989:18 and 5989.14 designed by M Sabitier. March... 1752. Ask for photo of this.
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