Wonderful subtle sparkly brocade - the perfect understated Englishman's waistcoat. This would have been worn by Thomas Crewe Dod.
Provenance: This waistcoat came from the family of Thomas Crewe Dod Esq (1754-1827) of Edge Hall, Malpas, Cheshire. Thomas commenced his military career in the 16th (Queen’s) Light Dragoons as Cornet in August 1775 when he was 21. He went to America with his regiment in August 1776, under Lieutenant George John Burgoyne. Promoted to Lieutenant in 21st regiment of (Light) Dragoons, he was gazetted captain into the 23rd regiment on 28 September 1781, the regiment returning to England in 1778 . He was gazetted captain in 23rd regiment of (Light) Dragoons in 1781. His regiment were the first to land in India in 1782 and on 27 July 1785 Dod was promoted to major. He eventually resigned from the Army to return to his Cheshire estates. He took part in the formation of the Cheshire Provincial Cavalry in 1798 and was commanding officer of the Western Cheshire Yeomanry raised in 1803. He married Anne, daughter of Ralf Sneyd of Keele, Staffs on 20 September 1786 when he was 32. They had six daughters and two sons. It is the sons who interest us because some of the waistcoats and breeches bought would have been worn by them. Thomas (1794 – 1810) who died unmarried age 16 and John Anthony (1798 -1821) who died in India aged 23.
Silk brocade of ivory fine diagonal lines woven with minute black and ivory silk motifs, bordered with silver gilt lines between pale blue silk, the stand collar with large lapels, double breasted with eleven pairs of self covered flat buttons, silk embroidered buttonholes, straight, two welted pockets, the back of white linen,two extra gussets to the sides, inside front and bottom lined with ivory twill weave silk, the back in cotton.
Nape to hem 24 in; 62 cm
Underarm 36 in; 1 m
As you look at the waistcoat on the right hand side there are four very small light brown markings around the armhole. Could they be damp marks? More flanking the area to the left of the first few buttons. Similar to the left hand armhole. On the left hand side, the panel to the right of the buttons has larger area (but when closed this would not show). The lower right and left lapel when turned right back, has similar very light marks, but again this would not show when on mannequin.
Ask for photos. The cotton lining has some markings. The left hand silk lining panel is badly stained and it is this area which has come through the brocade to the other side.
The upper back linen and round the armhole area is a little grubby.
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