Rare, unusual and interesting antique costumes and textiles; for museums and collectors looking for that extra special piece, for new and established collectors and for those with a modest budget who want to adorn their person or home.

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Hand Block Skirt
mid 18th c

Outstanding monochrome print with unusual and very attractive fruit motifs.  Unusually the fabric was printed with the large scalloped design down the length of the fabric, presumably for this very purpose, skirt hems.  It has been made into the skirt with the fabric being made up horizontally.



The skirt is Dutch, unusually with a monochrome print, probably madder.  It is influenced by early Indian chintz fabrics with borders, commissioned for the Dutch market. It would have been worn by the merchant class woman and It has been suggested that perhaps it was worn for half mourning. It may have been printed in Hindeloopen in Friesland which had a very specific mourning tradition, with up to 7 stages of mourning. 



Despite all the issues this is a really rare and wonderful print. 


Cataloguing

The natural linen hand block printed with large sprays of fruit including melons and grapes, in a monochrome aubergine print,  but probably from the madder plant, the hem with huge exotic flowers under curving C scrolls alternating with vases of flowers.



The full pleated skirt sewn with linen thread, with natural cotton tape waistband, the opening and pocket slit edged with fine linen tape.



Waist to hem 37 in;; 94cm



Length 37 in; 94 cm



Design repeat 6 1/2 in; 17 cm



Repeat 18 in;46 cm



Fabric width  - one panel is 37 in; 94 cm and the other is 107 in; 270cm meaning the fabric has been turned and the length is now the width. 



 


Condition

The skirt looks very fresh. There are some old darns and a few light marks, also quite a few holes to the bottom border panels. A small tear to the bottom of the opening. An area of 2 x 2 in; 5 x 5 cm of light yellowish marking to the lower hem. Plus another hem area with light yellowish markings. The odd small yellowish mark. Three melons have holes. I have photographed them. The border design has been cut at the bottom and turned up, probably from wear, but still looks in balance. Do ask for more photos. 


Comments

cooperhewitt.org/2017/09/16a-petticoat-for-dutch-new-york



https://modemuze.nl/collecties/rok-van-witte-europese-sits-met-bloemdessin-twee-tinten-bruin-en-versierde-rand-langs-de



https://www.zuiderzeecollectie.nl/object/collect/Zuiderzee_museum-17022



https://modemuze.nl/collecties/vrouwenjak-kaskein-van-indiase-sits-hindeloopen-1750-1775