Rare, unusual and interesting antique costumes and textiles; for museums and collectors looking for that extra special piece, for new and established collectors and for those with a modest budget who want to adorn their person or home.

Woman's Riding Jacket/Spencer
1815

Riding outfits comprised a tight fitting jacket or Spencer and skirt. The skirt would have inside loops and ties, to raise it when riding side saddle. The jacket is inspired by men's riding jackets. It is English and made from broadcloth, produced in Britain. 



The Spencer jacket was named after George Spencer, 2nd Earl Spencer (1758–1834),  the great-great-great-grandfather of Diana, Princess of Wales.  He was an English politician and a direct ancestor to Diana's father, John Spencer, 8th Earl Spencer. 



Legend says he singed (burnt) the tails of his coat by standing too close to a fire and had the damaged tails cut off, starting a new fashion for short, tail-less jackets.The rows of buttons are military inspired. This wool example would have kept the wearer very snug. 



 


Cataloguing

A jacket or Spencer of black wool broadcloth, a double revere deep collar, the front with twenty-two silk covered buttons from shoulder to the waist, the lower waist with with five buttonholes each side,  the cuff with one button and buttonhole and a metal hook and embroidered loop, the back with seams from back sleeve to high waist, a pleated tail centre back.



The inside of the jacket is lined with a tan twill weave cotton in a diamond shape, with dark brown glazed cotton surround, the sleeve interiors of same tan weave, a metal hook sewn upside down can be seen in the right hand side (for hooking up the skirt?), the cuffs of silk.


Condition

The back is fine. You will see there are three pin head holes to top left shoulder of jacket. Both cuff buttons are missing. The back tail is slightly damaged with a 4 cm split, so we have put a few stitches to hold it in place, but a conservator could undo our stitches, and put a piece of fabric underneath for support.



The inside tan twill weave cotton lining has a 10 cm tear.  The dark brown glazed cotton surround has come away on the lower left hand side, so just needs a few stitches to correct. It is actually quite interesting to see underneath and the construction techniques. There is a little discolouration to the brown. 


Comments

www.kci.or.jp/en/archives/digital_archives/1800s_1810s/KCI_05



For a very similar jacket see Kyoto Costume Institute Fashion p 170 - 3.


Price: on request

Ref N°: 1560