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Spitalfields Silk Brocade
1740s

Glorious brocade in lovely colours with fruit from the Plane tree, which is in many London parks. I have four skirt lengths from a dress.

The silk is woven with a points rentreés or shading technique. This was achieved by dovetailing different coloured silks together.  The silk would have been time consuming and to weave with eleven colours. Only a yard (36 inches) or 92 cm was woven a day, making brocades fabrics expensive to produce.The naturalistic silk brocade is vibrant, stunning and beautiful.  The points rentrés or shading technique helped to give a three dimensional effect  by dovetailing shades of brocading threads.

 

 

Cataloguing

the plain weave ivory ground woven with eleven colours of inky and pale blue, two shades of coral, brown and cream, magenta and pink, black, sea green and pale green, with horse chestnut conkers and three coloured flowers, the weave in a points rentreés or shading technique, pink selvedges.

Design repeat 11 1/2 in; 30 cm

 

Condition

Each length has some vertical markings where the fabric was gathered.

A - This length has an original slit to middle top, from when the skirt was made and attached to the bodice. This is in better condition than C, but does have some slight water marks and small horizontal split near the bottom.  38 in; 96 cm length + 4 in; 10 cm piece at the bottom. £ 275.

C - . C - Good condition. 34 1/2 x 20 in; 89 x 51 cm. £ 275.

Ask for photos of damage.

 

Comments

Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century from the Victoria & Albert Museum, edited by Clare Browne p 39 for a design with conkers by Anna Maria Garthwaite.

Costume in Detail Nancy Bradfield p 5 and 9 - Gowns from the Snowshill Collection, now National Trust housed at Berrington Hall.

Fashion and Frugality. English Patterned Silks in Connecticut River Valley Women's Dress 1660-1800 by Davd E Lazaro (Dress. Journal of Costume Society of America. Vol 33, 2006)