Rare, unusual and interesting antique costumes and textiles; for museums and collectors looking for that extra special piece, for new and established collectors and for those with a modest budget who want to adorn their person or home.

Rare Reversible Morning Gown
1790s

I really feel this copperplate indigo resist-print was produced at Bromley Hall, Middlesex*  



If you know of another reversible gentleman's dressing robe, please let me know.  I have not seen one before. English flowers depicted on the indigo ground. The reverse with a stunning cotton glazed French ramoneur (chimney sweep - named after the dark brown colour), hand block printed with fantastic flowers. Fabrics with dark grounds were fashionable in the 1790s. They required less washing! On the ramoneur side some of the the blue has been painted with yellow to produce green leaves. The button closure and pocket openings are rather clever. 


Cataloguing

Fabrics: The indigo resist-printed cotton/linen mix copper plate printed with white flower sprays depicting carnations, tulips, roses and lilies.



Design repeat length 20 1/2 in; 52 cm. The design covers the width of the fabric, which seems to be, allowing for seams, around 19 in; 48 cm.



The reverse in a glazed Ramoneur hand block printed cotton with ragged red poppies, outlined in darker red, mid blue lilac, roses, hips in soft terracotta, sea green leaves with the natural coloured ground showing through. 



Vertical repeat 15 2/8 in; 39 cm



Design of Robe: A stand up collar, front opening with three self covered buttons and hand worked buttonholes in blue linen thread, long sleeves with cuffs, side slit pockets lined with glazed coarse medium brown linen, brown linen seam stitching, central back vertical seam, no shoulder seams.



The reverse similar with two self covered buttons (1)



Back top neck to hem 50 in 1.27 m



Cuff to cuff 59 in; 1.5 m


Condition

(1) Lower button missing on both sides.



Indigo: Indigo side is in very good condition. The main area of damage, as you can see, is at hip level on one side of the front, where there is an old patch



Chinz: This side which is pieced is quite original. There are e few areas of repair.


Comments

*Printed Textiles  Linda Eaton, p 219, C121 although not indigo discharge this has a similar diagonal light trailing stem. This one was printed by Talwin & Foster of Bromley Hall Printworks, London.



From East to West. Textiles from G P & J Baker.  V & A exhibition 1984  p 37



Interwoven Globe. The Worldwide Textile Trade 1500-1800 p 211 no 56 for more Talwin & Foster fabric. 

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          



 



 



 


Price: on request

Ref N°: 1326