This rare fragment, which was probably part of a bedcover was embroidered in Cambay (Khambhat), Gujerat in Western India during the late 17th or early 18th century. This type of embroidery which was worked by the Mochi community of professional craftsmen was brought back to Great Britain by the East India Company and was hugely popular during the late 17th and early 18th century. Patterns were sent from Britain to be copied in India, and in particular in Gujerat which produced much of the export trade embroidery. I have included it in this category because it was made for the Western market. This piece is probably from a bedhanging. Bed curtains, valances, canopies and coverlets, chair covers and cushions were embroidered, usually by men, for the export Western market. In the Victoria and Albert museum they have sets of embroidered hangings similar to this with matching printed cotton chintz which could be used for covering walls. A hooked awl or ari with twisted silks created very tight chain stitches on Indian natural woven cotton. The bright clear colours and elegant design are stunning. The design is similar to English late 16th or early 17th century embroideries wih scrolling vines or rinceaux containing flowers. This design can be found on gentlemen's caps and ladies headwear (coifs) and jackets and furnishing textiles of the period. The design probably comes from Islamic Spain.
This piece would look marvellous mounted and framed.
Silk carnations in deep pink, pale yellow and blue enclosed by dark green scrolling vines, with curling tendrils, all worked in chain stitch on a natural linen ground.
22 x18 in; 56 x 46 cm wide
12 in; 30 cm design repeat.
There are a few pinhole markings with some light rust markings. It has clearly been unpicked. The top left hand corner is pieced to square up the panel. There is a seam on the left hand side 1 on; 2 .5 cm in from the edge.
Price: on request
Ref N°: 8722
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