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McLintock's Turkey Red
1870's

I love the designs on these filled petticoats.  Quilted petticoats remained popular in the 19th century for winter wear. From the 1860's colourful undergarments were produced, the designs often registered in an attempt to protect the copyright from rival manufacturers.

McLintocks of Barnsley, Yorkshire was started in 1790 by Robert McLintock of Glasgow, a linen weaver. His son James, a linen warehouseman and later a traveller became aware of silk waste called noils and had the idea of making it into warm, light wadding. His first quilt was made probably in the mid-1800s. McLintock's begin making down clothing after the new factory was built in 1867. The channels containing the down become progressively more wavy. Braids on the quilting lines were also used later. The first patent was applied for in 1875 and I think this garment was made about that time. They claimed to be the first firm to make down filled clothing. In McLintock's catalgoue they talk about Turkey Red discharge print as Turkey Chintz - at the time the word chintz had its original meaning of many coloured rather than a glazed cotton as we know it today.

Description

petticoat with an inside back label McLintocks, Purified Russian Down Petticoat No 8- 38 inches, the roller printed cotton in stripes of slanting overlapping pines alternating with narrower stripes of stylsied flower heads, all in scarlet, yellow, lime green, mid blue and maroon, the waistband with two holes for the drawstring, a bright red wool dust gathering braid at the hem, lined with bright red cotton and filled with down, ungathered waist 46 in or1.10 m 32 in or 80 cm drop

Condition

Very good. The drawstring is not there. The wool braid is quite holey.

Comments

There are examples in Platt Hall, Manchester; Bath Fashion Museum, V & A and Canon Hall Museum, Barnsley,South Yorkshire which has a small collection of McLintoch's underwear. See Quilt Studies The Journal of The British Quilt Study Group. Issue 1 1999 See Tobin, Shelley A Brief History of Underwear p 24 See: Johnston, Lucy Nineteenth-Century Fashion in Detail p 102.

Great fabric design The bright red dye is called Turkey Red, based on madder and was discovered and copied from the Near East. Goose down was used for the filling. Indian influence can be seen in the print. Quilted petticoats remained popular in the 19th century for winter wear. From the 1860's colourful undergarments were produced, the designs often registered in an attempt to protect the copyright from rival manufacturers. I do not know which manufacturer would have produced this petticoat. There are examples in Platt Hall, Manchester; Bath Fashion Museum, V & A and Canon Hall Museum, Barnsley,South Yorkshire which has a small collection of McLintoch's underwear. See Quilt Studies The Journal of The British Quilt Study Group. Issue 1 1999

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