It was exciting to find the East India Company stamp on the bodice lining of this Spitalfields silk damask gown, indicating that the cotton was imported from India. The textured design of some of the flowers was produced by the extra weft thread.This gown would have been worn with either a quilted petticoat or a matching damask. It is nice to have the original loops and tapes to puff the skirt into a polonaise. The fichu and lace ruffles are not included with the gown.
The large neck with front closing bodice, with rounded ends falling below the waist, silvered hooks and embroidered eyes, elbow length sleeves, the back square neck with pleats sewn down, tapering to the waist, but cut in one length to the hem, the skirt with fine pleating to the bodice, the front skirt edged with pinked gathered frill taken partway round the back skirt, the bodice lined with cotton with the East India printed mark, no boning to the bodice, the skirt with three tapes and loops, to pull retroussé, the back inside hem with a narrow lining edging of silk.
The silk damask with a asymetrical design with great movement in the huge motifs. A repeat almost the length of the skirt, with flowers including a blowsy peony, other flowers and fruits, and curling acanthus leaves. Woven with an extra weft thread to produce a textured design to some of the flowers and leaves.
Approximate flower designs 11 in; 28 cm.
Repeat 38 in; 97 cm.
The back shoulder to hem 5ft; 1.5 m
Underarm approx 38 in; 97 cm
The back hem of the gown has a missing pinked edging frill section 50 in; 1.27 m, which must have been damaged and removed. The existing pinked frill has been deliberately tapered to look as if it was always like that! Clever. The plain centre back hem is a little worn. Ask for more photos. The silvered hooks are later.The sleeves have been taken in but the tucks are original, presumably for letting out when the gown was altered at a later date. One sleeve has a little damage 2 in; 5 cm. This could be backed quite easily and not be so noticeable. We can do this and tidy up the hem. There are two of the original loops and tapes and one later set. Ask for photos of the inside.
Patterns of Fashion 1. c.1660-1860 Janet Arnold. A new edition revised and compiled byu Melanie Braun, Luca Costigliolo, Sébastien Passot, Claire Thornton & Jenny Tiramani. p 37. A must buy book!
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