Glorious brocade in lovely colours with fruit from the Plane tree, which is in many London parts. Ihave four skirt lengths from a dress.
The silk is woven with a points rentreés or shading technique. This was achieved by dovetailing different coloured silks together. The silk would have been time consuming and to weave with eleven colours. Only a yard (36 inches) or 92 cm was woven a day, making brocades fabrics expensive to produce.The naturalistic silk brocade is vibrant, stunning and beautiful. The points rentrés or shading technique helped to give a three dimensional effect by dovetailing shades of brocading threads.
C - the plain weave ivory ground woven with eleven colours of inky and pale blue, two shades of coral, brown and cream, magenta and pink, black, sea green and pale green, with horse chestnut conkers and three coloured flowers, the weave in a points rentreés or shading technique, pink selvedges. 34 1/2 x 20 in; 89 x 51 cm. £ 300
Design repeat 11 1/2 in;30 cm
A - This length has an original slit to middle top, from when the skirt was made and attached to the bodice. This is in better condition than C, but does have some slight water marks and small horizontal split near the bottom. 38 in; 96 cm length + 4 in; 10 cm piece at the bottom. £ 300.
B - The top section has a joined piece, which has original veritcal cuts, for making into a skirt. 41 in; 1.04 m + 4 in; 10 cm added piece at bottom. Few horizontal splits. £ 325
D - Some old darns to top right hand side. A large horizontal split to centre 6 in; 15 cm; A small split near the bottom and few marks. 37 1/2 in; 95 cm. £ 275
C - Good condition. This has clearly been used for the skirt of an 18th century dress and as such has some vertical markings, near the top of the length, where the fabric was gathered. There is a small light brown mark to the left hand side1x 1 1/2 in; 3 x 3 cm dia. The measuremnt I have given does not include the extra piece 4 in; 10 cm sewn to the top of the length, which would be original, and the two pieces totalling 7 in; 17 cm added to the bottom, one of which is probably original.
Ask for photos of damage.
Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century from the Victoria & Albert Museum, edited by Clare Browne p 39 for a design with conkers by Anna Maria Garthwaite.
Costume in Detail Nancy Bradfield p 5 and 9 - Gowns from the Snowshill Collection, now National Trust housed at Berrington Hall.
Fashion and Frugality. English Patterned Silks in Connecticut River Valley Women's Dress 1660-1800 by Davd E Lazaro (Dress. Journal of Costume Society of America. Vol 33, 2006)
Price: on request
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