Originally this simple sleeved style waistcoat called a hemdrok was worn by sailors and farm workers, tucked into their voluminous breeches for practical reasons. Often two or three waistcoats were worn for warmth. The garment was hip length,fitted with the button opening ending at the waist. By the 18th century the hemdrok evolved into a decorative jacket worn by high ranking seamen using rich fabrics and decorative buttons. At home the ordinary sailor would wear the jacket for Sunday best. Small removable ball buttons in close rows decorated the front and sleeves, held together by a connecting cord. Depending on one's wealth they might be made of gold, silver or tin. The underarm slits allowed for greater movement.
The provence of Friesland with trading ports on the Inner sea had a large seafaring community who called the jacket borstrok, baeitje or busje. Due to Holland's fame as a sea faring nation Peter the Great spent a year around 1700 in Holland learning seafaring and shipbuilding skills. A set of original items of clothing of this date including a hemrok are in the Hermitage Museum, St Petersburg.
The woven silk lampas is probably French. By candlelight the silver colour in the brocade would have glistened. Interestingly the silk edging braid is similar to that on the Chinese export skirt also on the site. The waistcoat is small so probably worn by a young man.
Under one arm is stamped J Bakker & ... Amsterdam and an unreadable. This waistcoat was bought by the threatrical costumier company who frequently bought original 18th century garments to loan out for theatrical productions. Luckily for this piece there is no damage.
The medium blue silk damask woven with silver coloured design of a ribbon and lace meander with sprays of flowers, some with large flowerheads, round neck, the front with buttonhole slits and holes, for the removable buttons, beautifully hand embroidered, the front left with a slanting, overlap, the sleeves slit under the arms for greater movement, a two tone blue and silver cord edging the waistcoat, the side backs with slits and slight pleating, lined with coarse linen, Bakker written in ink to inside neck area, under arm inked stamp Bakker & .... Amsterdam.
Bust appoximately 34in; 87 cm
Back to hem 25 in;65 cm
Very good. No stains or damage. The warp threads have rubbed a little in places. This is very minor indeed. Little rubbed neck area to the lining silk. Ask for detailed photos.
Made in Friesland 1750-1950 by Gieneke Arnolli p 30/31
http://www.bonhams.com/auctions/16286/lot/263/
http://www.geheugenvannederland.nl/nl/geheugen/view/damasten%20hemdrok%20hippolytushoef%20eeuw?query=hemdrok&page=2&maxperpage=36&coll=ngvn&identifier=NOMA01%3AHM4293
Price: £2,000 | $2,680 | €2,300
Ref N°: 791
All images and text © meg-andrews.com 2021
